I finally tried surfing. I LOVED it!
So that part where the wave starts to lift me and my board gets me every time and I just look down at my hands on the edge of the board and watch the water fall from under me- so trippy. It made me miss a bunch of waves...
But I did catch 2 that gave me that extra buzz of adrenaline and really made me want more. I could have stayed out all day- that is, if my arms let me.
Reminds me of my first (and only) time surfing. That was on Waikiki on a long board. The waves weren't that big but riding the wave felt good, freeing even.
ReplyDeleteI had a roommate (who I also knew from my mission) who lived on School St in Honolulu (Interesting that I remember where he lived after this long). He used to ride the big waves at Sunset, Banzai and Waimea bay. Crazy man! He was 1/4 Hawaiian but mostly Chinese. I wish I knew where he is now and what he is doing. It would be good to talk to him again!